On Spring Break of 2018, my wife and I flew to Florida to cross an item off of our her bucket list: swimming with manatees. This was a quick trip – flew in Tuesday morning, flew out Wednesday night, with a manatee swim scheduled for 6:15am Wednesday morning with a local captain. But the two days we spent in Crystal River are two that I’ll never forget. The climax, of course, was our encounter with the giant sea cows in the murky waters.
According to many websites, the best place to swim with manatees is Crystal River, Florida. Crystal River is on the gulf side of Florida, about an hour and a half north of Tampa. This trip was mainly made possible due to extra airline miles that I had that would soon be expiring. Because of this, our flight selection was scarce, so instead of flying in to Tampa, we took a 6am Tuesday morning flight to Tallahassee, rented a car, and drove three hours to Crystal River. On Wednesday afternoon, we would reverse course with another trip up the coast to Tallahassee for a return flight home.
Homosassa Springs
Upon arriving in Crystal River on Tuesday afternoon, we journeyed to nearby Homosassa Springs to check out a wildlife park. This park is home to many species of Florida wildlife, including manatees. While this two-day trip was ALL ABOUT MANATEES, I have to admit that the highlight of Homosassa Springs was Lou. Lou is a 50+ year old hippo that is now an official resident of the town. Apparently the wildlife park used to have many animals back in the day, including Lou. When they switched from a zoo to wildlife park they lost their ability to house non-native animals. The only way to keep Lou in the park was to make him an official resident – which the town did.
Crystal River
Before we go any further, I should stop and give you some context about our trip. Crystal River is a tourist town on the Gulf side of Florida. The residents in the town are typically older, and the businesses are mainly tourist traps. Manatees are the prime industry here. Manatees can live in both salt and fresh water areas. They do, however, need to be in a temperature of 68-72 degrees. Because of this, they will go out to the ocean in the summer when the water temperature rises, and come in to shore in the winter. Because of the natural springs, the water temperature stays right where a manatee needs it.
When Summer hits, the reason manatees go out to the ocean rather than stay in at shore is quite simple: Food. Manatees eat a lot of food! So after the winter months, there really isn’t much left for them to eat. Because of this, they’ll head out to the ocean as soon as they feel the temperature warrants it.
Although manatees seem to not mind the presence of humans in the water with them, there are some rules in swimming with manatees. Florida law prohibits you from initiating contact with manatees. You are allowed to touch them if you are swimming with them, and one approaches you first. Also, there are designated “resting areas” for the manatees, that are off limits to humans. These are typically along shorelines, and allow for manatees to have some space.
With all that in mind, “Manatee Season” is branded as November 15-March 31. This is the time when manatee swims are most popular, and you have the highest success rate of seeing them. Our trip fell just within that window (March 28, 2018).
Our First Manatee Sighting
At Homosassa, we did get to visit with some manatees that live in the wildlife park. But captive manatees were not the purpose of our visit. We wanted to see wild manatees! Around 6pm that night, we found ourselves at what apparently is the only sit down restaurant in Crystal River (we ate lunch there the following day). The wait was about 45 minutes (Only. Sit. Down. Restaurant. In. Town.). Before we could sit down, hungry, adjusting to the late March heat that we weren’t experiencing in Chicago, we heard claim that would jump start our manatee experience: “Mom, come down here, I see manatees!”
That call was from a boy, probably 12 or 13. I looked to see my wife’s reaction, which at the time was of sarcastic disbelief. But regardless, we took the boardwalk around the restaurant, and headed down to the docks to check it out. I don’t believe this is an uncommon patron practice, as the restaurant had a speak to announce when your table is ready. Once down at the docks, it took merely seconds for a manatee and her baby to stick their heads out of the water. To this day, it remains the as the quickest a 45-minute wait at a restaurant has ever gone for us! We spent the entire time focused on the water, waiting to see these wild manatees! Our excitement level had quickly sky rocketed!
We went to bed early Tuesday night (as I’m pretty sure most of those living in Crystal River did as well). Our scheduled manatee swim was at 6:15 the following morning, meaning we would be up at around 5am. Also keep in mind we’re only one day removed from living in Central Standard Time, so this would feel like 4am.
The Day of the Swim
Wednesday morning came, and we my wife were was extremely excited. We made our way over to the manatee headquarters, got fitted for our wet suits, and watched the introductory video. Next, we were put into groups, and introduced to our crew for the four-hour adventure. There was some anticipation here, as the reviews for River Ventures were all extremely positive. However, each one called out Captain Mike for being amazing. We were nervous as to who our captain would be. So…we were pumped up when a friendly voice walked up to us and said “Hey everyone – I’m Captain Mike. Let’s go swim with some manatees!”
I’m not sure how important this part is to the story, but it’s a fun callout to me. Captain Mike is bad with names (so he says). So instead of asking us our names, he asked us all where we’re from. So he referred to us as “Chicago”. Our team also consisted of San Francisco, Australia, and New Jersey.
The Springs
Our swimming with manatees adventure started with a boat ride over to a spring. It’s about 7am at this point, the sun has just started to come up, and it’s a crisp 50 degrees or so outside. The water temperature is between 68-72 degrees (hence the wet suits). We’re in a pontoon boat which comfortably seats about 10-12 people, so it’s a pretty enjoyable boat ride. However, anticipation was building, and we really just wanted to see some manatees. Finally we arrive at the spring, and we all follow Captain Mike into the water. I should mention here that we were snorkeling on this adventure. We hadn’t snorkeled since our honeymoon, about 10 years prior. So the first 3 1/2 minutes of the excursion featured both of us frantically trying to figure out how to snorkel again. Luckily, muscle memory cooperated within a few minutes, and we were ready.
Step one was to swim down a small channel in the spring. These are some untraveled waters for boats, and Captain Mike was looking for some manatees that were hanging out. The currents in these springs can be challenging. Luckily we were able to navigate through some tight spots, and through some rocky areas to the spring. In the clear spring, we spotted a few manatees, and some turtles.
Changing Locations
While we saw some manatees in the resting areas, the springs did not provide the experience Captain Mike was looking for, so we headed out to some more open waters. Captain Mike wanted us to experience swimming alongside the manatees, with the hopes of us having an encounter.
On the ride to some open water, we passed many other tourist boats. As Captain Mike exchanged words with them, two things became clear to us:
- We got started much earlier than the others. Although that 5am wake-up call was tough, it was definitely worth it, as we were out on the water much earlier than most of the other boats, which allowed us to get to the Spring by ourselves, and enjoy the peacefulness before all of the others arrived.
- Everybody loves Captain Mike. While gliding through the waters, other captains would ask his advice on where to go. He’s got a great reputation down there, and we were very happy we were with him.
Murky Waters
After a short boat ride, we anchored, and were back in the water. Unlike our first swim, which was in a small channel with clear water, the surroundings were much different. This time the water was much deeper, and murky. Boats were very frequent in this area. While visibility in the Springs was probably 60-80 feet, out here in the open visibility under water was more like six feet. It was much more likely to encounter a manatee here…if you can see it.
While in the Springs we stayed together as a group, in the open waters we spread out. Because the water is murky, we have a better chance of spotting manatees if we all spread out, and then we can alert the others. I mentioned earlier that we were doing alright swimming in the channel. This proved to be true in open water as well, and we found ourselves covering a lot of ground in our search.
All of a sudden, it happened. Swimming alongside each other, a manatee swam directly beneath us. Although they weigh a thousand pounds, manatees are fast! It was gone before we knew it. We both surfaced and looked at each other in disbelief. The only thing we could both say to each other was “Did that manatee look like a giant potato to you?!?” In fact it did – a thousand pound potato had just swam under us…and we wanted to see more.
Fighting the Currents
I mentioned that in the channel, the currents were strong. In open water, the waves and currents combined to make it difficult to go where you wanted. You’re constantly being pulled in the direction of the water. We were at a particular spot that was a nearby boundary for manatee privacy. In these boundaries, sometimes there are ropes, and other times just buoys that you have to stay clear of. If you’re swimming with your head down, it’s tough to know where you are. At one point my wife glided to far past the buoy, which prompted Captain Mike to yell “Chicago, get back here or I’ll taze you!”
We saw several more manatees out in the open waters. Captain Mike had found us a nice spot. At this point we’re in the final half our or so of our trip. We’ve started to figure out where the manatees are, and how we might best have an encounter with them. We decided to swim a bit to a spot between two manatee safety zones. This spot was perfectly fine to be in, and you can both see manatees in the safety zone, as well as swimming from one to the other. The hope would be that one would take interest in you on its way through.
An Encounter…Maybe
While swimming between these two netted safety zones, I found myself up against the ropes. The current was pulling me hard into it, so I had my hands on the rope and was trying to push myself backwards so I could swim into open water. While fighting the current, and focusing on my breathing, I noticed some extra bubbles. I looked forward, and there it was: the belly of a giant potato.
My first thought was; Oh crap, am I in the safety zone? I quickly realized no, I’m not, i’m outside the rope. So then I had to focus – is this manatee choosing me? To choose someone, a manatee will come face up to you, and pause. This would invite you to rub its belly. It may then choose to hang out with you, or possibly roll over. I quickly looked forward to see if I was being chosen, but the potato was gone, just like that. The whole thing probably lasted five seconds. My conclusion was that the manatee did indeed choose me, but I was too focused on the rope to know what was going on. The manatee then decided it’s life was too short to waste on me, and headed into the safety zone.
Now, remember, there are lots of people swimming with manatees in the waters. Others saw this manatee swim by, and saw me near it. When I popped up, one of the first things I remember hearing was Captain Mike, shouting “Chicago, did you have an encounter?”. An encounter is a very big deal. Captains can use this to promote their manatee finding abilities. It also guarantees higher satisfaction with the group. He’s very curious in my answer. Before I could, however, I felt my wife’s glare. It was sharp, and direct. I realized at that moment that even if I had been chosen by the manatee, this was not the moment to say so. “No, it just swam past” I answered. I looked at my wife, who had a very skeptical glance. I’m pretty sure to this day, she’s convinced I touched it and have never told her.
Time to Head Back
A few minutes later, our time was done, and we headed back to the boat. Our swimming with manatees adventure was concluding. The excited driver asked us “Well, can you cross it off your bucket list?!?” My wife hesitantly replied “Meh…probably not. I want to touch one.” I’m pretty sure she busted that lady’s bubble.
But I think my wife’s sentiment was echoed by many others. Swimming with manatees is exhilarating. It’s a thrill. It’s unexpected. However, the goal is to “meet” one. Being chosen would be an amazing feeling. And until we do, I’m not sure we can say our swimming with manatees adventure is complete.
Advice for Others
So what should you take away from our swimming with manatees adventure? Perhaps nothing. Perhaps it’s just a fun story. But if I was going to pick a few things out, here’s what I would say:
- Help a loved one live a dream – I really enjoyed seeing my wife experience this. Her dream of touching a manatee wasn’t fulfilled, but that’s part of the fun – we still have something waiting for us in Florida when we choose to go back!
- Challenge yourself to do something new – I was never against swimming with manatees, but I also never would have done it without Jill. It was a lot of fun. I would totally go back, and I’m happy I did something out of my comfort zone.
- Florida has some beautiful scenery – I think most of us (especially parents) think of Disney when we think of Florida. Exploring the Gulf Coast with my wife was an unexpectedly enjoyable part of the trip. We drove down some roads with a view of the coast, and visited Homosassa Springs while we were down there.
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